Białowieża Forest natural woodland tour – wolves, beavers and old-growth

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Hats off to Polish kings. They
saved Europe’s Amazon from extinction. It’s thanks to them we have a primeval forest
to explore, replete with bison, bogs and ancient trees. It’s also thanks to
them we have an open-air laboratory to study how works a European old-growth
forest. This is a wood that excites, inspires, and informs, making it the
perfect place for exploring pristine nature on our expertly guided 4 day tour.
Read on to find out why.

Aesthetic/emotional appeal/
Drama of the product/ what is the problem

A forest excites

If you’ve ever wondered how
Europe looked before man tamed it, this is it. Millenia ago a dense primordial forest
veiled the continent. Its hallmarks were old trees, dead wood, meandering
rivers and fearsome animals. Think Jurassic Park from coast to coast, but with
bears, bison and aurochs instead of dinosaurs. Over time, it was cleared to
make way for towns and farms. Meanwhile, Białowieża was protected by royalty.

The forest survived as a private
hunting reserve protecting bison and their habitat. It’s now the only natural
forest left in lowland Europe. In most forests, humans dominate the landscape –
we destroy beaver dams, hunt wolves and plant pine trees. In an old-growth
forest, it is wild plants and animals that shape the landscape.

So, in a way, visiting Białowieża
Forest is like time travel. Here you can tread in the steps of royalty and magnificent
beasts long lost elsewhere. You can hear wolves howl and deer bugle under the
canopy of trees that saw Polish kings hunt centuries ago. If you’ve ever
wished to walk an ancient wood while learning how it works, this tour could be
for you.

A forest inspires

The forest’s survival is one of
history’s gifts to European conservation and ecology. Here bison pasture, beaver
meadows, and wolf territories survive alongside farmers’ fields and villagers’
gardens.

But the forest’s survival was far
from certain. In the 20^th century, the turbulence of empire and war
broke the forest’s historical system of protection. Half of Białowieża Forest’s
area was transformed into plantation and natural secondary growth.

Luckily the other half survived
as old-growth. On the tour we will explore forest of both natural and
anthropogenic origin to show how old-growth differs from the human dominated
landscapes elsewhere in Europe. We will also see how a modern European civilisation
can coexist with nature.

I’m happy to say, since 2017 the
forest has been living through its best years in a century. The forester’s saw
has been sheathed, hopefully for good. Once again, nature alone shapes the
landscape. In time, the areas transformed by forestry over the 20^th
century will become old-growth. The tour will examine these natural rewilding
experiments, showing how quickly forest damaged by loggers can return to
nature.

A forest informs

As an open-air laboratory, the
forest teaches how an old-growth forest works. Here scientists can study how
species interact with one another in a landscape unoppressed by humans. This
reveals to us ecological mysteries impossible to unravel in western Europe,
where such ecosystems are long gone.

But till now, this knowledge has
all too often remained locked away in scientific journals: the forest sometimes
described as Europe’s Serengeti or Amazon, remains largely a mystery outside
Poland. Few English books or documentaries tell the forest’s story. We want to
help change that. Here comes the tour’s plan.

Why is it different from other
tours/ Unique features/ Solving the problem

Don’t expect a bison safari or
photography tour.

Most tour packages fail to
surpass the superficial. They take people for walks. They describe what is
seen. They park guests in hides to wait for animals to appear. We aim to do
something different.

As scientists who study this
magical wood, we aim to share the cutting edge of European ecological research.
We will reveal science’s secrets while exploring woods where few people ever
go.

Expect a cross between a traditional
wildlife tour and a seminar. We will focus on three hot topics in conservation:
natural forest ecology, large carnivores, and beavers. We will cover the
hallmarks of an old-growth forest and how it differs from managed forests. We
will explore how large carnivores shape populations of their prey, and how wolves
interact with tree logs to improve forest regeneration. And we will see how the
beaver, nature’s engineer rewilds river valleys. For a detailed breakdown of
topics, head to the itinerary section below.

But no story of Białowieża would be
complete without knowing a little of the past. We will also immerse ourselves
in the history of the region. We will learn about the families of ‘beaters’ who
guarded the forest for centuries on behalf of royalty. We will cover the world’s
first large carnivore reintroduction (of the bear, 1930s), alongside the
successful reintroduction of the bison (1940s). We will then look to the future
to reveal how 21^st century geopolitics poses new threats to the
forest – border walls and frontier militarisation.

Don’t worry, the tour isn’t only
about sharing scientific knowledge. It’s as much about imbibing the wild scenes
around you. Expect plenty of walks around primeval forest untouched by forestry
or civilisation. We will wake up at dawn to witness the noble bison out at
pasture, grazing to the call of the wryneck.

Oh, and did you know the bison is
a refugee species? Science has shown that the king of the forest isn’t really a
forest species at all. It’s a beast that evolved on the plains of Europe. It
only evacuated to the woods as its natural habitat was taken over to become farmland.
Its such little-known stories we want to share with you.

Who are the guides/what is the
company

Your guide will be Dr Tom
Diserens, an ecologist who has lived in and studied Białowieża Forest for the
past 8 years. His PhD completed in 2023 focused on how wolves shape the populations
of their prey and competitors. He has recently embarked on a new project studying
the impacts of wolves and humans on beavers. Suffice to say, his work in this
special forest has taught him many lessons about nature he wishes to share with
you.

Half Polish, half British, he
grew up a few miles away from Snowdonia in Wales. As you may know, the
spectacular landscape of Wales is denuded of trees and resembles a green desert
– you would be hard pressed to see any wild animal greater than a squirrel
there.

After moving to Białowieża, Tom
was struck by how normal it is for wolves, bison and moose to canter even through
gardens. This wildlife was once common across the whole of Europe. As such, he
realised Białowieża Forest can inspire the rebuilding of ecosystems elsewhere.

During the tour, 1-2 guest
guides, also local scientists, will be invited to spend an afternoon with you.

Brief itinerary

The daily plan entails a blend of
talks and trips into the forest. Talks will involve slide shows (max 2 hours
daily). Trips will involve hikes into the forest, aiming for well-preserved
(old-growth) woodland. We will try out common research techniques, such as
camera trapping, animal tracking and bat detecting.

Don’t fear being overworked. This
is meant to be a holiday, after all. The tour schedule is flexible, and will
accommodate spontaneous detours should guests wish. For instance, we can follow
wolf tracks off piste (don’t worry, it’s safe to do so). Expect plenty of
breaks for chats over tea and coffee. Evenings can be spent recapping the day’s
experience in cafes. On the final day expect a gathering by a bonfire under the
stars.

You will manage fine with average
fitness. Expect to walk 5-10 km daily over flat and easy landscape. We will
only take you through boggy beaver meadows if you wish to see them.

Guiding, transport,
accommodation and food is all prearranged. We’ll meet at the airport and
transfer you to Białowieża, travelling in a comfortable SUV or minibus. We’ll stay
in a family run guest house, taste regional cuisine and be chauffeured around
for the duration of your stay. We aim for you to spend your time in the
wilderness care-free.

You may have safety concerns
about travelling so close to the EU’s eastern border. But worry not. The Polish-Belarusian
border is without military threat, although migrants are still crossing fairly regularly.
As such, you should expect to see police, army and border guards during your
stay. In our view, the elevated presence of security services makes the forest even
safer than usual. Indeed, the British Foreign Office travel advice
makes no mention of safety issued in this part of Poland.

In any case, on the first day, you
will be fully briefed regarding health and safety issues. That includes what to
do if you meet a wild animal or border guard when out in the field.

To sum up, we invite you to join
us in Europe’s last primeval forest. We will take you on a journey to
experience a forest of our forefathers. You will learn to spot how forests back
home differ from a natural forest. You will learn how keystone species, such as
the wolf and beaver shape old-growth forest systems. All the while, you will be
guided by scientists who study this enchanted wood for a living, while also
networking with likeminded people. Finally, you will go home with the knowledge
to repair and rebuild your local ecosystems.

Sign up to the tour to learn how
Europe’s ecosystems once worked. See available dates or book using the form
below. Send us a message if you have any questions.